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Look for a good Product
How Damaged Skin Differs
Chiral Compounds
Effects of Hydroquinone
Safety of Kojic Acid
 
Prepared by: Dr. Charlene DeHaven, Clinical Director

EFFECTS OF HYDROQUINONE©

Adverse Effects of Hydroquinone© — Topical hydroqui- none is frequently used throughout the world as a skin bleaching agent. It may be found in concentrations up to 10-15% but preparations containing concentrations above 2% are required by the FDA to have a doctor’s prescription. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel says that hydroquinone is safe in concentrations of 1% or less for water-based cosmetic preparations designed for discontinu- ous, brief use followed by rinsing from the skin and/or hair. The CIR Expert Panel states it should not be used in “leave- on” cosmetic formulations. In spite of this, internet sites can easily be found that offer topical hydroquinone in concentra- tions over 2% and very commonly as high as 4% or more.

The World Health Organization of the United Nations states: “It is recommended that over-the-counter sales of creams containing hydroquinone be restricted. Health education programs should be developed to discourage the use of hydroquinone-containing creams...”


Although chemically similar substances are found in some plants, hydroquinone for cosmetic use is chemically synthesized. Hydroquinone was originally introduced years ago as a less toxic alternative to mercury-based bleaching agents, which were potentially very toxic. Attention is now being focused on the potential toxicities and adverse effects of hydroquinone itself.

Hydroquinone is easily absorbed from the skin and its absorption increases dramatically by placing alcohols in the preparation. It reacts with the functional parts of individual cells and effects cellular metabolism. Applying hydroqui- none to skin and then exposing the skin to sunlight also markedly increases potential toxicity. It is very rapidly absorbed from the GI tract. In the presence of moisture and at room temperature, hydroquinone can metabolize to quinone which causes much worse eye irritation than hydro- quinone, leading to conjunctivitis (red eye) and erosions of the cornea (open sores over the central eye).

Mechanism of Action — Hydroquinone has cytotoxic (cell- killing or cell-damaging) activity on the pigment-producing cell of the skin, the melanocyte. The cell-toxic activity of hydroquinone is caused by a free-radical oxidation mecha- nism. Free radical development has the potential to damage the melanocyte on its own or also damage neigh- boring cells or their physical structures. Because this free- radical effect also harms the genetic material within the pigment-producing cell, it can encourage the cell to develop into a cancerous (malignant) cell.

Comparison with other Agents — Arbutin glycoside, which is of plant origin, decreases the production of the skin pigment, melanin. The arbutin inhibits an enzyme called tyrosinase which is.required for one of the chemical steps in melanin forma- tion. This inhibition of pigment formation occurs without cytotoxic (cell-damaging) activity. Kojic acid, an alphahydroxy acid and also derived from plants, is another enzyme inhibitor of tyrosinase. It decreases pigment production in a way like arbutin. Laser treatments have been used for pigmentation irregu- larities but require a surgical procedure and have their own list of potential complications.

Potential Adverse Effects — It was once thought that concentrations of hydroquinone of 2% or less had negligible potential for adverse effects. We now know this is not true, as the medical literature reports problems occurring with lesser concentrations. Another earlier myth was that only heavily pigmented skin, as in Blacks, suffered from adverse effects related to hydroquinone use. This also is untrue, as side effects in Asians, Hispanics and Caucasians have been reported in the medical literature. The potential adverse effects involving inflammation (redness) and cell damage (related to free radical damage), potentially resulting in the development of malig- nant cells, are of the most concern.

Inflammation — Redness (also called erythema), an indicator of inflammation, reliably occurs in guinea pig skin exposed to hydroquinone in concentrations of 2% up to 5% in a tested population to which it was applied 5 days per week for 13 weeks. This redness goes away after the treatment is stopped but the skin has suffered the effects of inflammation during the exposure period. In these guinea pigs, kidney damage was seen if the hydroquinone was given orally but not if it was applied to the skin in concentra- tions from 2% to 5%. Visible inflammation also occurs in human populations using hydroquinone and is found in the majority of users and with any concentration of the hydro- quinone. Since the substance is toxic to cells, even if redness cannot be seen with the naked eye, there is ongo- ing inflammation accompanying the cell damage associ- ated with the substance. This is a type of irritant dermatitis, or skin inflammation caused by an irritating substance.

Eczema — This is an allergic response to a substance to which the skin can become sensitized. It may begin with an inflammatory response but the subject can become so sensitive to the product that they develop skin inflammation when only a tiny amount of substance is applied to the skin.

Possible Systemic Absorption—Hydroquinone is readily absorbed from the skin and can be detected in urine as the intact parent substance (rather than a metabolite) after the 2% cream is applied. The evidence relating to kidney toxicity of orally ingested material raises concerns here, considering that hydroquinone applied to the skin must get through the blood stream and the rest of the body in order to be found in urine. This raises other questions about the cancer-causing (malignant) potential and other cell-damaging (cytotoxic) properties of hydroquinone that could occur with systemic absorption (passage through the skin to the remainder of the body). Blood cell toxicity and leukemia have been associ- ated with hydroquinone absorbed throughout the body.

Dyschromia — This term refers to abnormal discoloration. Even though hydroquinone is applied for skin bleaching, its end result can be the formation of large patches of very uneven skin color. This dyschromia is very unsightly and difficult to treat.

The bleaching agent has been its cause and therefore cannot be used in treatment. Lazer treatment is a possibility but is not always effective, requires a surgical procedure and has its own potential complications.

Exogenous Ochronosis — This is a type of dyschromia that is particularly serious. Another variant of this skin pigment disorder is inherited and can be associated with malignan- cies, but this exogenous (meaning ‘caused outside the body’) type is associated with topical hydroquinone use. It involves increased pigmentation of the neck, back, face and parts of the extremities. The majority of patients with this are Black and it is especially seen in South African Blacks, who have up to a 27% use of hydroquinone products for skin bleaching. This disorder also occurs in Hispanics and Caucasians with hydroquinone use. Treatment is frustrating because improvement occurs so slowly after use of the agent is discontinued.

Macular Hyperchromia — This is an increased pigmenta- tion of the area surrounding the eyes. It occurs in up to one-third of African Blacks using hydroquinone skin- bleaching products. It also improves extremely slowly after the product is stopped.

Striae — Striae are the “stretch marks” that also occur with pregnancy and rapid weight gain. Their appearance has also been associated with the use of hydroquinone. They are permanent and probably result from skin inflammation and resultant scarring related to the product.

Very rapid Repigmentation — One case report was found in the medical literature of a case of vitiligo that very rapidly repigmented after hydroquinone was stopped. Vitiligo is a skin disorder manifested by areas devoid of pigment and appearing as very pale mixed with normally pigmented areas. A common treatment is to apply skin bleaching products to the remaining pigmented skin to encourage loss of melanin and a blending with the depigmented skin. In this case, an improvement occurred but was very rapidly lost within a few weeks as the skin rapidly repigmented itself.

Fingernail Discoloration — A single case was found in which the fingernails developed a brownish discoloration with 4% hydroquinone-containing skin bleach that also contained tretintoin. When the cream was stopped, the nail discoloration gradually went away.

Hydroquinone Neuropathy — A single case report involves the gradual development of increasing weakness in the legs associated with topical hydroquinone use. This person had used 2 hydroquinone bleaching preparations for about 4 years. She stopped using the creams and 4 months later, her leg weakness resolved.


References


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